Zabaldika

You know how it is.  You go into something with expectations based on the opinion of others, the info you were able to gather or perhaps your own imagination. Usually these are a set up for significant disappointment. Based on some YouTube clips I had certain expectations for our visit to the church of S. Sebastien (Steven of the book of Acts if I'm not mistaken) in Zabaldika.  I was NOT disappointed.  

The structure itself is not all that impressive I suppose, unless you stop to consider what it took to build that on a steep hill some 800 years ago.  Based on my climb of the bell tower, 56 very narrow stairs, tightly spiralling and buffed smooth by eight centuries of usage, I can surmise that people must have been smaller and more agile back then :) Of course it has a beautiful altar, unbelievably ornate statuary and some of the usual features. One of the unusual features is a statute of Joseph holding the baby Jesus, which I believe is incredibly rare. Don't panic, Mary was not far off. There was also a lovely ancient/modern contrast: a large and very old crucifix surrounded by green "post it" notes placed by visitors and pilgrims who are encouraged to write their prayers and leave them there.  Profoundly beautiful.

I must say though, that what exceeded any expectations Jenny or I might have had was our encounter with Sister Maria. I sure hope I have her name right but if not it is a pretty good guess as I have met more than a few Marias here. Sister Maria belongs to the Religious society of the Sacred Heart of Jesus (RSCJ) and these sisters volunteer to keep the church open and to receive pilgrims to not only show them the church but to listen to their stories, to point them to Jesus, to let them pray quietly and to bless them and express the love of Jesus to all who enter. 

Although Maria made an appearance on one of the YouTube clips I had seen, and she seemed lovely, meeting her was beyond delightful. It seems every once in a long while you meet someone who exudes love, and I would even say the love of God. Like the beauty of the region we are walking through, this love is difficult to put into words, but when you encounter it it seems you know it. Maria did nothing spectacular for us, gave us no possession beyond an information sheet and in some ways is an unremarkable, petite, elderly woman. But the love. The peace. The powerful and comforting presence of someone fully aware of how loved of God they are and without hidden agenda sharing that, well that is truly remarkable, palpable and moving. Jenny and I shared a few words with her and were both moved to tears. In my estimation growth means continually being transformed to be more like Jesus and it is pretty clear to me that Maria has done far more growing than I. But hope remains.

Jenny with Sister Maria

One final observation. At the outset of the Camino de Santiago one is given a Pilgrims Passport or a Credential, as they call it. At most of the towns, churches or hostels along the way travelers get this stamped to indicate stops on the journey and that adequate miles have been walked to earn a certificate upon completion. The stamp at Zabaldika was that of the Religious Society of the Sacred Heart of Jesus. It is so meaningful, expressing the love of Jesus in the world and for the world. Methinks that includes you.

Posts in this series:
Welcome to The Long Walk
Ent-ish

Fog and Crosses 

Zabaldika

The Alto de Perdon

Peripatetic Prayer

Odds and Ends

Common slogans on the Camino

Holy

Trees and Time

...   

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